![]() However if you are stuck with 3-wire connections, here's a trick. If you have 4-wire supply, by all means use it. They tie the machine chassis to neutral, so when the neutral wire has a problem, it energizes the chassis of the machine and kills people - usually children who squeeze behind the dryer to fetch a ball or something, their muscles twitch madly but it doesn't push them out of contact because of the confined space. Note also that "classic" 3-prong connections for ranges and dryers are dangerous as all getout, because the 3rd wire * is not ground, it is neutral. You're not allowed to under-fuse a range or dryer, but you are allowed to oversubscribe the subpanel. It seems extremely unlikely that both accept the same circuit breaker size.Īs such you will need a subpanel to give them independent power behind their own breakers. We can help with these calculations if you post nameplate data. ![]() You must run that through NEC 220.55 to compute the size of the circuit required, however if the documentation specifies min or max breakers that too must be respected. I do not believe a 125% derate is applied to dryers. Hopefully the nameplate will state a minimum and maximum breaker size. Heat pump dryers are entirely motor loads (but multiple motors) so NEC 230 applies. The dryer is provisioned based on the data on the nameplate, which indicates its operating amps or VA.You have to follow the official methods documented in NEC. No, you don't get to "make up" your own method of provisioning circuits. Fortunately, it was renovated a couple of years ago, is a big building, is in a major city.ġ4-50 splitter I’m considering - You have to do Load Calculations the official way I can’t change the wall service or upgrade at the box, as I’m renting. (2) The outlet splitter is UL listed, made my a US company, manufactured in China (of course). ![]() (1) If the dryer is made for a 30a service, would that pose an issue re: internal wiring somehow (despite the low 3 amp / 750w draw)?
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